PAPAN today is an abandoned town. We have the opportunity to visit No.74 whenever we arrived. The approach to Papan is strangely scenic. There are giant rain trees growing along a winding stream, limpid mining ponds, a hill slope dotted with Chinese graves, then suddenly in the middle of nowhere, a brick and mortar streetscape. Remarkably, Papan begins to show signs of life towards sunset, when children come out to play and residents get home from work. Old friends hang out and chatter in the town's only two coffee-shops.